Things to See in Old Muscat, Oman
Exploring Old Muscat Provides an Insight into the History of Oman
© Rod Quin
With its medieval gates and walls, spectacular harbour, old forts, modern palace and museums, Old Muscat offers visitors to Oman a range of opportunities for sightseeing.
Old Muscat is the Muscat of history. Called Old Muscat to distinguish it from the modern city of Muscat which has grown around it, the old city is just 1.5 kilometres long by 1 kilometre wide, and can be explored on foot in less than a day.
Often confused with Muttrah, Old Muscat is an administrative and military centre 2.5 kilometres east of Muttrah.
The Walled City
From the sixteenth century until as recently as 1970, Old Muscat was a walled city where the gates were locked at sunset, and anyone failing to carry a lantern illuminating their face was arrested. In a land in which radio, television and newspapers were prohibited, the city walls were the main means of administrative communication in Oman: the sultan announced his decrees simply by posting them on the city walls.
Entrance to Old Muscat from Muttrah is a via a spectacular double carriageway gate. This is the site of the Muscat Gate House Museum (see below), a modern structure opened in 2001 and not, as sometimes supposed, one of the original gates to the city.
The first of the old gates, Al Kabir, is 300 metres past the Muscat Gate House Museum. The other two gates, Al Mathaib and Al Sagir, also still stand, as do restored sections of the city wall and its moat. A walk along the walls and through the carved gates is a walk back in time.
Muscat Harbour
Most of Muscat’s spectacular circular harbour is hidden from the city by a mountain on which sits Al Mirani fort, one of the two forts which guarded Muscat from invaders. Carved into the very edge of the mountain and directly abutting the harbour is the waterfront road, Al Mirani Street.
The road can be accessed from Qasr Al Alam Street, but a more dramatic approach is off Al Mathaib Street via the tunnel carved through the mountain.
In one direction, Al Mirani Street follows the curve of the mountain left to the Oman Naval Base, where modern warships occupy wharves once used by Portuguese, Persian and Omani men of war.
To the right, Al Mirani Street takes a sharp bend back towards the city. At this point directly above and behind is Al Mirani Fort and across the bay can be seen its twin, Al Jalali Fort.
The Al Mirani and Al Jalali forts visible today were built by the Portuguese who occupied Muscat in the sixteenth century, but were constructed on the sites of earlier Omani forts. Both forts are now museums open only to foreign dignitaries.
Al Alam Palace
Al Mirani Street also provides an excellent view of the elegant Al Alam palace with its striking blue, white and gold pillars. Built in 1972 by the current ruler of Oman, Sultan Qaboos, the palace is used primarily for ceremonial purposes rather than as a residence.
Another picturesque vista of the palace is available from the Kabir Gate. Here a broad pedestrian avenue and an arcade of traditional Arabic pointed archways frame the view of the palace.
Museums in Old Muscat
A number of museums in Old Muscat provide additional insights into Oman’s history.
- Bait Al Zubair, located in an old trader’s house on Al Saidiya Street, is a private collection of traditional Omani jewellery, weapons, household equipment, furniture and clothing. Open Sat-Thurs, 9-1, 4-7. Entrance: 1OR (2.5 USD).
- The Omani French Museum, on Qasr Al Alam Street, contains documents, pictures, costumes and jewellery illustrating the history of Oman’s relationship with France. Open Sat-Thurs, 9 -1 (and from Oct 1- Mar 31, 4-6). Entrance: 500 Bzs (1.25 USD).
- The Muscat Gate House Museum, on Al Bahri Road, provides an illustrated history of Oman with emphasis on Muscat and the royal family. The roof offers panoramic views of Old Muscat and Muttrah Harbour. Open: Sat-Thurs, 9.30-11.30, 4.30-7. Entrance: free.
